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the
first East Meets West Rally
...Apostle Islands, Bayfield, Wisconsin * August 13-20, 2011 Report by Alan Asselstine |
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Apostle Islands Rally – August 13 – 20, 2011
Several
years
of discussions on an East meets West rally resulted in this first
Apostle Islands rally. The location was the Apostle Islands National
Shore on the south shore of Lake Superior, "Gitche Gumee", near
Bayfield,
Wisconsin. (A map of the park is available.)
With
9 Wayfarers and 21 sailors we were a small but enthusiastic group. The
participants were:
* These were the names given to these boats during the rally. Most
sailors camped at the Beaver Pond Campground beside the Casino in Red
Cliff. The others had motel, condo or house accommodation in Bayfield,
3 miles south. The beach at Red Cliff was the boat mooring and launch
point.
Saturday 13 August – Arrival Day Robert
Mosher had arrived Friday. Early Saturday, John Kolstoe and son, Alex,
arrived and joined Robert in sailing around Basswood Island and to
Madeline Island’s west shore. They started with good wind that dropped
off to none after rounding the south end of Basswood. By evening
campfire time, all participants had arrived except Ian, who was not due
until Sunday. Four boats were on the beach and four were ready to be
launched in the morning.
Sunday 14 August – Hermit Island (no need to go to Maine) The
day was warm and sunny. However, with light winds and a short sailing
day, as some boats still had to be launched, the planned sail was to go
around Basswood Island and find a place to have lunch on the east side
of Basswood. Eight Wayfarers set out – Merriweather, Jaa Rik,
SHADES, Njord, Port Tack too, the Jordans,
Orange Top and Orange Bottom. In light winds, the
fleet made it to the north tip of Basswood where the Honeymoon Sea
Stack sits. With SHADES taking the lead, the fleet sailed
around Honeymoon Sea Stack.
No suitable landing spot was found on Basswood. So, with 5-8 knot north westerly winds, we set out for a beach on the south shore of Hermit Island. After a very pleasant sail, the fleet landed on the stony Hermit Island beach. The water was surprisingly warm, so many went for a swim. The beach was stony but Port Tack Too managed to get her centre board stuck with sand that had to be loosened before setting sail for home.This time the planned route was to sail east of Basswood and around its southern tip back to Red Cliff. The crew of SHADES decided it was getting late and went inside of Basswood. After a good start, the winds died at the south end of Basswood and out came the oars and paddles. No boat had a motor. As we worked toward Red Cliff, we saw SHADES and a second Wayfarer. SHADES was moving well under paddle. The second Wayfarer was Bindlestiff with Ian aboard, rowing. Everyone had arrived. As it was 7:00 PM when the boats were pulled out, the tailgate party was postponed until after dinner. The party became a campfire meet-and-greet session. John & Alex then continued on their trip to see family in Minnesota. Monday 15 August – La Pointe, Madeline Island With
5 – 10 knot southerlies beating up to La Pointe in the morning and
running home in the afternoon was the plan. Robert Nelson, a sailing
instructor staying by himself at the campground, joined our group and
crewed for Ian. And Andy Ivancic had arrived just in time to replace
the departed Kolstoes on Robert Mosher's Orange Bottom. The
crew of SHADES wanted to go to the Apostle Islands Marina in
Bayfield to see Tom and Cyn Bloom aboard Savannah. Richard and
Al had met the Blooms at the Rock Hall YC earlier in the summer. After
a good start, the fleet was becalmed at the south end of Basswood. SHADES
looked to be moving well along the shore near Bayfield. Had
Uncle Al chosen the right route? SHADES disappeared into
Bayfield. The Blooms were not home but Richard and Al did buy a
Leatherman at Ace Hardware.
The southerlies finally picked up again and the fleet arrived at La Pointe by 2:00 for lunch, ice cream and a walk past the busy Burnt Down Café. Chuck had arranged for us to pull out on a private beach near the ferry dock. Just before 3:00 SHADES arrived from Bayfield and joined the fleet for the run back to Red Cliff. For the first time ever, Andy Douma flew the Port Tack too spinnaker. It was another campfire night of visiting. Tuesday 16 August – Oak Island With
a 5 to 10-knot south wind, it was going to be a run to the pier on the
south shore of Oak Island. A fleet of seven boats set sail at a little
after 11:00. We set up a rendez-vous off Red Cliff Point and changed
our destination to the sand spit on the south shore of Oak Island. At
the Point, the crew of SHADES advised that they were turning back to
try to visit Long Island. Well, after a spirited beat, Uncle Al and
Richard met Chuck who was taking his two sets of guests, from Oklahoma
and from Traverse Bay,.out sailing in W767 This was the last Apostles
sailing day for Richard and Al since Al was loath to miss any of the
Hermit Island Rally in Maine and had leave Wednesday so that he could
pick up Julia in Oakville on the Friday and continue on to Maine. An
offer to join Chuck and Bill Smethells (the Traverse friend who had
bought Chuck's first W) on a run over to Tom's Burned Down
Café was too good to pass up. So they decided to take SHADES
out early and and then took the Madeline Island ferry to the
Café.
The rest of the fleet continued north to the sand spit on Oak Island. It was a good landing place with a soft beach and a picnic area. Unfortunately, it was exposed to the south wind which built to 12 knots. Sails were reefed and JR and Port Tack Too set sail. Unfortunately, Bindlestiff's centreboard got sand into its centreboard box and was stuck. After 20 minutes, the board was freed and the rest of the fleet also set sail for Red Cliff. With the 12-knot winds gusting to 15, it was an enjoyable sail. This evening, all were invited to Chuck and Ginny Jordan’s place for a Wisconsin-style BBQ of Brats and burgers. It was the big social event of the rally. A nice chance to say good-bye to Uncle Al, Richard and Ian who were leaving in the morning. The food was great and the conversation stimulating. It was a chance to meet Chuck and Ginny's family and friends. Many of us discovered New Glarus and Leinenkugel beer and so found that Wisconsin can produce “real” beer not the more commercial stuff available outside the state. There was a pregnant pause in mid-evening as host Chuck called us all out onto the deck where the downpour had lessened. In a surprise ceremony, Alan Asselstine and Uncle Al were made honorary cheeseheads and fans of Wisconsin's world-famous Green Bay Packers football team. August 17 and 18 – Mini or Overnight Cruise to Stockton Island Andrew
suggested an overnight cruise to Stockton Island and eight others
agreed to come along in a total of four boats. In addition, Jaa Rik
with Sean and Quinn sailed out with the fleet to see us off but then
went back as they were heading south on the 18th. The forecast winds
were 15 to 20 knots from the west, so it would be a fast run to
Stockton Island. While we were in the lee of the Bayfield peninsula,
our winds were in the 12 to 15 knot range. But by the time we reached
the north tip of Basswood, the winds had reached 20 knots. Merriweather
and Njord hove to in the lee of Basswood and again in the lee
of Hermit Island to let the fleet re-group. The recently purchased Orange
Top lacked some equipment for sailing in these conditions, and was
being sailed downwind in an admirably cautious manner. Orange Bottom
used this opportunity to go downwind, upwind, and on reaches to improve
their heavy-wind sailing skills, while always sticking close to Orange
Top for safety.
From Hermit Island, the fleet set off on the longest run to Presque Isle Point on Stockton Island. The wind continued to build and according to the park ranger, some gusts hit 25 knots as waves reached four feet. According to our GPS's, Orange Bottom reached a speed of 9.4 knots and Merriweather hit 9.6 knots as they planed down the waves. All four boats soon reached our destination of Presque Isle Point on Stockton Island. Orange Top and Njord landed on the windward (west) side of the point in Presque Isle Bay, while Merriweather and Orange Top rounded the point to land on the leeward side of the point in Julian Bay. Both
sides offered beaches on which to land our boats though the boats on
the west side had to be pulled well up to avoid the waves. The camp
sites were on the west side and so two nice sites with bear boxes were
staked out. The east shore offered a large quiet beach off which
several yachts were anchored for the night. We decided to have supper
on this lee side beach so the crews of the windward side boats made the
half-mile trek across the point since that side was much more
comfortable. It was a great place to swim, relax and eat after the
invigorating sail. There was time for exploratory walks around the end
of the point or along the beach. Camping was prohibited on this east
beach, so the crews of Merriweather and Orange Bottom
decided to join the yachts and sleep under boom tents aboard their
boats which they anchored. Sleeping aboard is an experience all
Wayfarers should enjoy, especially with a moon- and starlit night and
no mosquitoes or bears.
In the morning, those who needed to, walked back to the west shore for breakfast, to check the winds and to launch Orange Top and Njord. On the path was fresh bear scat, to remind us whose home this really was. Today's plan was to sail straight back to Red Cliff. Orange Top and Njord would do some exploring along the shore, while the other boats set sail and came around the point in the now pleasant winds of about 5 knots from the south. All was going well as we made 3 to 4 knots with the southerlies. Then over the radio from Orange Bottom came the word “Do not come here; it has turned to glass.” Soon no boat was going anywhere as the lake was like glass all around us. A couple of hours of changeable to no winds followed. One shift gave us thirty minutes of about 4 knot winds from the north. With paddles and catching any wind available, we closed in on the north tip of Basswood Island. At last we saw a wind coming from the south and suddenly we were sailing in 12 knots. The result was a good sail back to Red Cliff. The mini- or one-day cruise had been a success for the participants. Thursday evening was the black-tie night. We got dressed up and gathered at the camp ground for the Wayfarer equivalent of a yacht club social night. The pictures best describe the good natured and enjoyable social evening led by Lori and Andrew. August 19 – Last Sailing day and a quick sail to Bayfield Two
boats, Port tack too and Njord, each with a crew of
three, set out in variable southerlies for the three-mile sail to
Bayfield. Others drove to town. The destination was the Sailing Club
beach near Mary and Alan's condo. After a short walk around town, all
gathered for BBQed fresh white fish by the water at the condo. Even
Robert, who is not a fish eater had seconds. Then it was a quick sail
back to Red Cliff and the job of taking the boats out. Paul and Andy
I., with shorter drives to Thunder Bay, headed home. Those remaining
marked the end of the rally with a meal made by emptying their coolers.
August 20 to 27 - Robert Mosher’s post-rally cruise I left on Saturday and
sailed up behind Long Island (that sand spit Al and Richard wanted to
see earlier in the week) but contrary to weather predictions, it was a
lee shore so I ran for Madeline Island's Big Bay. Next day I stopped at
Michigan Island and climbed the Light House, then stayed at Stockton
Island. Next day it was on to Outer Island's north shore which is
barely safe and only with a south wind. Luck was with me and the wind
stayed to the South. I met Craig Blacklock
(Mr. Lake Superior) nature photographer who had kayaked out, and two
girls who were just coming back from 7 days in the woods counting
plants.
The next day I wanted to beat the bad weather but did not, so settled for Cat Island. On the way to Cat, I was counting seconds from the lighting strikes, and waited for the wind to hit hard. Spent the next day on Cat Island Beach with the sun shining, 20 plus mph wind, gusting to 34, with sudden gusts. Picked up some trash and killed sand flies. On Thursday it was on to Rocky, followed by Devils Island. Friday in rip-roaring winds and waves. After turning back from the North end route which was too wild, I finally got my groove on and was hiking out and sailing hard. I swear the waves would explode half-way up to the spreaders when I hit them just right. Good thing I had my dry top on. Sailed into Devils Island Harbor which impressed all the local sailors who always motor in. Next morning was my birthday. Got up early, walked the Island and climbed the lighthouse. I then rowed from the South end to the North (1.5mi) looking at sea caves and rocks. Around 3:00 PM, I started back to Red Cliff. I could have stayed at Raspberry or Oak Island but wanted to sail all the way back in one go. The winds were light and frustrating. I pulled up on shore in the Harbor at 1:55 AM. Pulled out the sleeping pads and bag, then pulled the sail over me and went to sleep. It had been a great day. Post-Script With
9 boats and 21 sailors and great weather the rally was a success. Most
of those participating plan to return to the Apostle Islands. New
friendships were forged and preliminary discussions were made on the
subject of a Lake of the Woods cruise or rally. Others expressed
an interest in a Michigan rally.
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